tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-90531808333230222492024-02-19T08:31:48.470-08:00802printer3D printing, work logs of individual projects, other related notes of 3D printingBiggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.comBlogger15125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9053180833323022249.post-1231094977293592202016-05-31T15:06:00.001-07:002016-05-31T15:06:24.129-07:00Printing with the Printrbot PlayLast week I purchased the Printrbot Play as an experiment to get back into 3D printing after such a long hiatus (I know!). <br />
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After printing a calibration cube, I decided I needed to print something more utilitarian...here comes the Simple Toothpaste Squeezer (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:867811). The Printrbot Play is an awesome starter printer, much more so than my original Printrbot Simple (wooden version). This printer is all metal, has belts instead of string and a metal bed, which surprised me the most.<br />
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If you ever wanted to dabble into 3D printing, I highly recommend the Printrbot Play. It's a steal for the price!<br />
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Please watch the video below and be sure to give it a like!<br />
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Thank you for reading today's blog post!<br />
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-802 PrinterBiggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9053180833323022249.post-71162242618525022552015-07-04T05:30:00.000-07:002015-07-04T05:30:00.206-07:00Minecraft Creeper - Part II and III with AssemblyThis is a continuation of the Minecraft Creeper project, with the printing of the body and the clip, which joins the head and body together.<br />
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Overall the final two prints came out decent, however there was warping of the body near the legs. The last and final "oops" moment, was while I was putting the Minecraft Creeper together, and I broke the clip, while inserting it into the head.<br />
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In hindsight, I should have examined the body and head closely and noticed there were a small "cross beam" inside each chamber, to which the clip notches fit perfect. My biggest tip to you, the reader, is to carefully examine this as well, so your 3D printed Minecraft Creeper comes out perfectly.<br />
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Below are the time lapse videos of both the body and the clip, along with final assembly (where you can see my mistake).<br />
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Part II - Printing the body:<br />
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Part III - Printing the clip, with Assembly:<br />
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As always, thank you very much for watching my YouTube content. Please like, share and subscribe for more 3D printed videos!<br />
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<br />Biggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9053180833323022249.post-82683365779669820632015-06-28T12:37:00.002-07:002015-06-28T12:37:48.745-07:00Minecraft Creeper Print Series - Part IToday I printed the <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:83942" target="_blank">Minecraft Creeper</a> and was able to film all three parts with the GoPro Hero 4 Black. Unfortunately due to the length of time for the Creeper's head and body, I elected to split the video up, into three parts, so the video did not become boring or monotonous.<br />
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Time lapse video of the Minecraft Creeper's head:<br />
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As always thank you for watching, and if you would like to suggest a Thingiverse item to be printed, be sure to hit up the comments under the YouTube video, or message me on Twitter!Biggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9053180833323022249.post-43625477463382615982015-06-20T07:45:00.000-07:002015-06-20T07:45:06.872-07:003D printing the Fallout 4 KeychainEarlier this week, I found a <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/make:143852" target="_blank">Fallout 4 keychain</a>, and with the game coming out in a few months, I wanted to add this to my keychain with my car keys. As mentioned in previous posts, using the MatterControl Touch, I quickly sliced and printed this object in about an hour.<br />
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Overall the print came out very well, however there was some stringing of PLA in between each letter, and along the letter "L"s. Using the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Octave-Tool-Kit-3D-Printer/dp/B00ASFRSP2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1434811079&sr=8-1&keywords=octave+tool+kit" target="_blank">Octave 3D printing tool kit</a>, I was able to quickly remove the stringing and clean up the lettering.<br />
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Some slicing/printing information:<br />
Print time: 1h18m<br />
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Filament: 1.75mm PLA (Natural color)</div>
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Filament Needed: 1223mm</div>
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Quality: 0.1mm</div>
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Print Speed: 40mm/s</div>
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Outer Perimeter Speed: 28mm/s</div>
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Infill Speed: 40mm/s</div>
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Infill: 80%</div>
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Shell Thickness: 0.8mm</div>
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Temperatures: (Hotend) 180C, (Bed) 60C</div>
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Printed on: SeeMeCNC Orion Delta</div>
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If you are interested in watching the time lapse of the SeeMeCNC Orion Delta printing this Thing, check out my YouTube video here:<br />
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Thank you very much for reading this blog entry. Please continue to follow me on YouTube and subscribe for future 3D printing videos, every Saturday.Biggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9053180833323022249.post-13514636982868490952015-06-13T05:30:00.000-07:002015-06-13T05:30:00.646-07:00Printing the "Nonlethal" Door Stop MultitoolFor the last week we have had very windy conditions, and with the windows open, we had a few doors slam shut and generally disturbing the peace. With that in mind, I found this <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:200571" target="_blank">Thing</a> on Thingiverse and proceeded to print it rapidly.<br />
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Using the MatterControl Touch and printing at 30% infill, my SeeMeCNC Orion Delta proceeded to print. Overall, there were no curling or lifting of any of the "teeth" of the Thing or even the "bumps" along the top of the multi-tool.<br />
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After a few test drives and trials, the door stop multitool work like a charm. I am in the process of printing a few more for the kitchen, office and even the bedrooms. If you are looking for another Thing to print, I highly recommend printing this.<br />
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Time Lapse YouTube video of the entire print:<br />
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Some pictures of the print, post cleaning and test uses:<br />
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If you like to see more 3D printing content please like, and share these blog entries!Biggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9053180833323022249.post-44663046375730440262015-06-06T04:00:00.000-07:002015-06-06T04:00:06.386-07:00Work Log | Printing the Coin Cup Holder<br />
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Hello everyone,</h3>
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This week I printed a <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:683189" target="_blank">Coin Cup Holder</a> to help organize my change after the work week.<br />
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Using the MatterControl Touch, I downloaded the STL, and using the built-in slicing software, the MatterControl Touch quickly sent the GCode to my SeeMeCNC Orion Delta and off to the races the printer went.<br />
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Unfortunately I did not realize I had set the infill to 40% at the time, however after about six hours, I checked in and saw my printer was no where near finished. Per the MatterControl Touch, the print still had another six hours to finish, and it was not far off. At roughly 11 hours and 31 minutes, this Thing is the second longest item I have ever printed.<br />
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Clean up wasn't too excessive with this Thing, thanks to the very few "points" where the hotend has to go from one far point in the X-axis, to another point in the X-axis. There was very little need for sanding or filing of the edges. When it came to actually adding the coins to to each individual chamber (there are segregated chambers for US pennies, nickels, dimes, quarters and dollar coins), I was able to add them with no issues. Each chamber can hold up to 50 coins (confirmed with pennies and nickels), so you can easily sort and count them before you roll the coins into a coin roll.<br />
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Overall I would highly recommend printing this for organizing your coins, and reduce the amount of clutter in your change jar.<br />
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Additional media:</h3>
Time Lapse video of the 3D print:<br />
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<br />Biggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9053180833323022249.post-87018585552245052912015-05-29T12:00:00.000-07:002015-05-29T12:00:00.754-07:00Latest addition to the 3D printing equipmentRecently I have been looking at improving my 3D prints, and after some searches around, SeeMeCNC (the manufacturer of my longest running 3D printers), was selling this Android-based tablet called MatterControl Touch. Based on the literature on the website (http://seemecnc.com/products/mattercontrol-touch-tablet) the ease of use and relatively fast process of starting a new print was an appealing factor in my decision to purchase the MatterControl Touch earlier this week.<br />
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Based off of the software of the same name, the tablet takes over the role of downloading, slicing/repairing the .STL files and ultimately the handling of the GCode to the printer. After some initial trial and error, I printed the default test print (a square object roughly 1cm3). The initial test print had a warping issue on one of the corners, which I later determined was from the printer set too fast of a print speed.<br />
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Since then I have successfully printed eight different objects; Five (5) coasters from the NES 8bit Coaster Set (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:104371), a tablet holder (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:303952) and the latest print (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:403031), all came out extremely well with little sanding required. Below is one of the prints at extremely close up.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHPgb7V-17VIQhHnijRoHI6mci1kwN1_6gCJ8RO53aeBnM9rO32rhe9KqavSp6N1eKVvpWPpDfaP1BXj_tspHHhTjzSwsVaVY4Tov840qcFgbjg7B9SY4nou7YXL0Y2szI5soJwluBbNEr/s1600/IMG_0296.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHPgb7V-17VIQhHnijRoHI6mci1kwN1_6gCJ8RO53aeBnM9rO32rhe9KqavSp6N1eKVvpWPpDfaP1BXj_tspHHhTjzSwsVaVY4Tov840qcFgbjg7B9SY4nou7YXL0Y2szI5soJwluBbNEr/s320/IMG_0296.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Since I received my unit on Wednesday, I have been very impressed with the ease of use of the software, as well as the speed of which I can find a new item on Thingiverse, download it, slice/repair the STL, generate the GCode, and finally start printing within 10 minutes.<br />
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As I do more of YouTube videos of each unique Thingiverse item, the speed of which I can start a new print, will easy pay for itself in no time.<br />
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If you are new to 3D printing, and you have never used Slic3r or Cura, I highly recommend using this tablet, as a starting block.<br />
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If you would like to see more content regarding the MatterControl Touch, be sure to leave a comment here!<br />
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<br />Biggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9053180833323022249.post-28953251226031770492015-05-27T15:30:00.000-07:002015-05-27T17:11:19.569-07:00GCode | for the GoPro Hero Seat Post Mount<h2>
Hello everyone,</h2>
<br />
In the interest of sharing my GCode for each print I run on the SeeMeCNC Orion Delta printer, I will include the entire GCode in a separate post from the original work log.<br />
<br />
Below is what Slic3r generated for my printer based on the following perimeters:<br />
<br />
<b>Print/Slicing settings</b>:<br />
<div class="p1">
Filament: 1.75mm PLA (Natural color)</div>
<div class="p1">
Filament Needed: 11453mm</div>
<div class="p1">
Quality: 0.1mm</div>
<div class="p1">
Print Speed: 15mm/s</div>
<div class="p1">
Outer Perimeter Speed: 28mm/s</div>
<div class="p1">
Infill Speed: 20mm/s</div>
<div class="p1">
Infill: 80%</div>
<div class="p1">
Shell Thickness: 0.8mm</div>
<div class="p1">
Temperatures: (Hotend) 180C, (Bed) 65C<br />
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<h2>
GCode</h2>
<div>
https://www.dropbox.com/s/aw1j2viauq4etnp/goproseatpost_gcode.txt?dl=0<br />
<br />
(Unfortunately I couldn't paste the actual block of GCode here, as the block is over 90 thousand lines of text. I have provided a DropBox link so you can download the GCode and observe the file yourself).</div>
</div>
Biggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9053180833323022249.post-40067992589673913022015-05-23T04:30:00.000-07:002015-05-27T17:11:19.574-07:00Work Log | 3D printing a GoPro Hero Seat Post Mount<h2>
Worklog</h2>
Last weekend I received a request from a friend to print him a seat post mount for his mountain bike, and found this Thingiverse item to print (<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:83883" target="_blank">GoPro Seat Post Mount by tonecoder</a>).<br />
<br />
After slicing the part, and putting it through the SeeMeCNC Orion Delta, the part came very well, with some rough spots of stringing along the hinge of the mount.<br />
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Pictures from the print (after 20 minutes of sanding and removing brims):<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0EHYm45eZPpHgJm6ym2CfPHodn8C0yBxmfl_zwIdL1xgD9HHjdwg8V2frwV4DrMn9IK583Msx7FBCYSCtU5bhKmKA7W8aheegnEBX5NZpqmpas5brppM8h7-GEEs_c1OipJBQKXPqFEBY/s1600/IMG_0267.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0EHYm45eZPpHgJm6ym2CfPHodn8C0yBxmfl_zwIdL1xgD9HHjdwg8V2frwV4DrMn9IK583Msx7FBCYSCtU5bhKmKA7W8aheegnEBX5NZpqmpas5brppM8h7-GEEs_c1OipJBQKXPqFEBY/s320/IMG_0267.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkJHoRG7JUYsyRKWw4N697fyuardL_ckeay_6VxLawOThENGKf5x8609b5XfMu2LL60n0ZqKkiEGvSeVfA8NZcfg8f1KAyrLVg_zV6npU6CdmWlqCvUhuqcP89xu2VAK3qSUGEE3j3jTXo/s1600/IMG_0278.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkJHoRG7JUYsyRKWw4N697fyuardL_ckeay_6VxLawOThENGKf5x8609b5XfMu2LL60n0ZqKkiEGvSeVfA8NZcfg8f1KAyrLVg_zV6npU6CdmWlqCvUhuqcP89xu2VAK3qSUGEE3j3jTXo/s320/IMG_0278.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
Slicing/Print information:<br />
<div class="p1">
Print time: 3h:12m:37s</div>
<div class="p1">
Filament: 1.75mm PLA (Natural color)</div>
<div class="p1">
Filament Needed: 11453mm</div>
<div class="p1">
Quality: 0.1mm</div>
<div class="p1">
Print Speed: 15mm/s</div>
<div class="p1">
Outer Perimeter Speed: 28mm/s</div>
<div class="p1">
Infill Speed: 20mm/s</div>
<div class="p1">
Infill: 80%</div>
<div class="p1">
Shell Thickness: 0.8mm</div>
<div class="p1">
Temperatures: (Hotend) 180C, (Bed) 65C</div>
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<div class="p1">
Printed on: SeeMeCNC Orion Delta</div>
<div class="p1">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
YouTube video of the print in action:</div>
<div class="p1">
<a href="https://youtu.be/tr47UX-9lA8" target="_blank">Time Lapse | Printing the GoPro Seat Post Mount from Thingiverse</a></div>
Biggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9053180833323022249.post-52561989421924171732015-05-16T08:00:00.000-07:002015-05-27T17:11:19.585-07:00Work Log | 3D printing a GoPro Hero Chest PlateWorklog<br />
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Earlier this week I printed out a couple of the GoPro Chest Plate, courtesy of Maxxi from Thingiverse. Overall the SeeMeCNC Orion Delta printer printed this part very well, at 80% solid, with no defects. The only remaining items left for this part, is to install straps for the chest harness, and to add a camera mount for the GoPro Hero 4 Black.<br />
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Pictures of the print post processing:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirTwFWptBWP2gUZtkSDhyphenhyphenEjBP3A82iIcy4P1-RGBE_vBiVa7w0AhFpOuQtmnaQqfrok4-6LWovTaqqUGTfTaR1tEVuoC9WEW1ej5VkT55DqO2rzG5kXsoS52IP0dPnSRPzS7gxcFs7IQVD/s1600/DSCN3449.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirTwFWptBWP2gUZtkSDhyphenhyphenEjBP3A82iIcy4P1-RGBE_vBiVa7w0AhFpOuQtmnaQqfrok4-6LWovTaqqUGTfTaR1tEVuoC9WEW1ej5VkT55DqO2rzG5kXsoS52IP0dPnSRPzS7gxcFs7IQVD/s320/DSCN3449.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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With some sanding and filing I can clean the edges even more.<br />
Slicing/Print information:<br />
<br />
Slicing/Print information:<br />
Print time: 3h:12m:37s<br />
Filament: 1.75mm PLA (Natural color)<br />
Filament Needed: 11453mm<br />
Quality: 0.1mm<br />
Print Speed: 15mm/s<br />
Outer Perimeter Speed: 28mm/s<br />
Infill Speed: 20mm/s<br />
Infill: 80%<br />
Shell Thickness: 0.8mm<br />
Temperatures: (Hotend) 180C, (Bed) 65C<br />
Printed on: SeeMeCNC Orion Delta<br />
<br />
<br />
YouTube video of the print in action:<br />
<a href="http://youtu.be/bnMvcO_cLmg">Time Lapse | 3D Printing the GoPro Hero Chest Plate</a><br />
<br />
Thingiverse item:<br />
<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:83883">Gopro ChestMount</a>Biggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9053180833323022249.post-50383012355670148452015-05-09T06:00:00.000-07:002015-05-27T17:11:19.579-07:00Work log | 3D printing an under desk cable tidy clip<h2>
Worklog</h2>
Earlier this week I printed out a couple of the under-desk cable clips, courtesy of natko from Thingiverse. Overall the SeeMeCNC Orion Delta printer printed this part very well, at 100% solid, with very little defects. I still need to mount these on my desk and route the cables properly. Even with the warmer temperatures out this spring, this part never curled off of the print bed; That is the magic of blue painter's tape.<br />
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<h3>
Pictures of the print post processing:</h3>
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With some sanding and filing I can clean the edges even more.<br />
<h3>
Slicing/Print information:</h3>
Print time: 2h:47m:9s<br />
Filament: 1.75mm PLA (Natural color)<br />
Filament Needed: 9978mm<br />
Quality: 0.1mm<br />
Print Speed: 20mm/s<br />
Outer Perimeter Speed: 28mm/s<br />
Infill Speed: 20mm/s<br />
Infill: 100%<br />
Shell Thickness: 0.8mm<br />
Temperatures: (Hotend) 180C, (Bed) 60C<br />
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YouTube video of the print in action:<br />
<a href="https://youtu.be/T1Ikq4AHFVU">Time Lapse | 3D printing a cable tidy clip</a><br />
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Thingiverse item:<br />
<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:796100">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:796100</a>Biggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9053180833323022249.post-78127008336831898952015-04-25T10:42:00.002-07:002015-05-27T17:11:19.600-07:003D printing a rhino for the weekAfter several days of delay, I finally completed the 3D printed rhino thing from Thingiverse. Unfortunately, while I couldn't print the legs in time, I was able to print and sand both parts. Sanding the rhino's head took the longest, after removing the burrs from the ears, horn and around the neck.<br />
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Below are the time-lapse video and the Thingiverse thing I made (linked from the original source courtesy of Amaochan <br />
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Please watch, like and subscribe for more videos!<br />
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<a href="https://youtu.be/V67mKYUmF-A">Time Lapse of the Rhino</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/make:133661">Rhino 3D Print</a>Biggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9053180833323022249.post-9581168256149008972015-04-24T14:36:00.002-07:002015-05-27T17:11:19.605-07:00Wrapping up post on the latest video!After a long week of work-related travel, I am nearly finished with printing the last few parts of the upcoming video.<br />
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Be sure to check out youtube.com/channel/ryanebigelow for the upcoming video tomorrow!Biggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9053180833323022249.post-56177684609694598732015-04-20T08:00:00.000-07:002015-05-27T17:11:19.591-07:00[worklog] 3D printing a batarang<h2>
This week - printing a batarang!</h2>
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This week I printed a 3D version of the batarang, from an STL file created by japhillips87 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:471818). When I first imported the STL file into Slic3r, I noticed there were a few errors along the sharp points of the wings. Using the NetFabb, I was able to repair the errors in the STL file, then I exported the repaired STL file, and finally imported the repaired STL into Slic3r.</div>
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Using my default settings in Slic3r, I was able to generate fairly good gcode and exported that to an SD card. My SeeMeCNC Orion Delta printer took approximately two hours and six minutes. Unfortunately during printing, the skirt pulled off of the build plate and the wings curled upwards. I was able to clean up some of the stray plastic "strings" along the ears, but I still need to work on the wings.<br />
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Overall I'm satisfied with the print, the STL file was very well designed and the SeeMeCNC Orion Delta printer took very little time to print.<br />
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Print/Slicing settings:<br />
Filament: 1.75mm PLA (Natural color)<br />
Filament Needed: 2834mm<br />
Quality: 0.1mm<br />
Print Speed: 20mm/s<br />
Outer Perimeter Speed: 28mm/s<br />
Infill Speed: 20mm/s<br />
Infill: 100%<br />
Shell Thickness: 0.8mm<br />
Printed on: SeeMeCNC Orion Delta printer<br />
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Time lapse video of the entire print:</div>
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<a href="https://youtu.be/ddh0jUzz5Vo">3D printing the batarang!</a><br />
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Thingiverse<br />
<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/make:132202">Batarang</a></div>
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Please like, subscribe and share the video!</div>
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802 Printer</div>
Biggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9053180833323022249.post-62771338031583795842015-04-19T13:44:00.002-07:002015-05-27T17:11:19.596-07:00Welcome to 802printer's blog!<h2>
Welcome to the 802printer blog. </h2>
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This blog will feature notes, worklogs, and more for each 3D printed item I create and film on YouTube. Each video, featuring items from Thingiverse.com, are printed, in a time lapse format, then uploaded in 1080p 60fps format.<br />
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I hope you ynjoy the 3D printing content!Biggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01518708055852610269noreply@blogger.com0