Today I printed the Minecraft Creeper and was able to film all three parts with the GoPro Hero 4 Black. Unfortunately due to the length of time for the Creeper's head and body, I elected to split the video up, into three parts, so the video did not become boring or monotonous.
Time lapse video of the Minecraft Creeper's head:
As always thank you for watching, and if you would like to suggest a Thingiverse item to be printed, be sure to hit up the comments under the YouTube video, or message me on Twitter!
This week I printed a Coin Cup Holder to help organize my change after the work week.
Using the MatterControl Touch, I downloaded the STL, and using the built-in slicing software, the MatterControl Touch quickly sent the GCode to my SeeMeCNC Orion Delta and off to the races the printer went.
Unfortunately I did not realize I had set the infill to 40% at the time, however after about six hours, I checked in and saw my printer was no where near finished. Per the MatterControl Touch, the print still had another six hours to finish, and it was not far off. At roughly 11 hours and 31 minutes, this Thing is the second longest item I have ever printed.
Clean up wasn't too excessive with this Thing, thanks to the very few "points" where the hotend has to go from one far point in the X-axis, to another point in the X-axis. There was very little need for sanding or filing of the edges. When it came to actually adding the coins to to each individual chamber (there are segregated chambers for US pennies, nickels, dimes, quarters and dollar coins), I was able to add them with no issues. Each chamber can hold up to 50 coins (confirmed with pennies and nickels), so you can easily sort and count them before you roll the coins into a coin roll.
Overall I would highly recommend printing this for organizing your coins, and reduce the amount of clutter in your change jar.
Last weekend I received a request from a friend to print him a seat post mount for his mountain bike, and found this Thingiverse item to print (GoPro Seat Post Mount by tonecoder).
After slicing the part, and putting it through the SeeMeCNC Orion Delta, the part came very well, with some rough spots of stringing along the hinge of the mount.
Pictures from the print (after 20 minutes of sanding and removing brims):
Earlier this week I printed out a couple of the GoPro Chest Plate, courtesy of Maxxi from Thingiverse. Overall the SeeMeCNC Orion Delta printer printed this part very well, at 80% solid, with no defects. The only remaining items left for this part, is to install straps for the chest harness, and to add a camera mount for the GoPro Hero 4 Black.
Pictures of the print post processing:
With some sanding and filing I can clean the edges even more.
Slicing/Print information:
Earlier this week I printed out a couple of the under-desk cable clips, courtesy of natko from Thingiverse. Overall the SeeMeCNC Orion Delta printer printed this part very well, at 100% solid, with very little defects. I still need to mount these on my desk and route the cables properly. Even with the warmer temperatures out this spring, this part never curled off of the print bed; That is the magic of blue painter's tape.
Pictures of the print post processing:
With some sanding and filing I can clean the edges even more.
After several days of delay, I finally completed the 3D printed rhino thing from Thingiverse. Unfortunately, while I couldn't print the legs in time, I was able to print and sand both parts. Sanding the rhino's head took the longest, after removing the burrs from the ears, horn and around the neck.
Below are the time-lapse video and the Thingiverse thing I made (linked from the original source courtesy of Amaochan
This week I printed a 3D version of the batarang, from an STL file created by japhillips87 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:471818). When I first imported the STL file into Slic3r, I noticed there were a few errors along the sharp points of the wings. Using the NetFabb, I was able to repair the errors in the STL file, then I exported the repaired STL file, and finally imported the repaired STL into Slic3r.
Using my default settings in Slic3r, I was able to generate fairly good gcode and exported that to an SD card. My SeeMeCNC Orion Delta printer took approximately two hours and six minutes. Unfortunately during printing, the skirt pulled off of the build plate and the wings curled upwards. I was able to clean up some of the stray plastic "strings" along the ears, but I still need to work on the wings.
Overall I'm satisfied with the print, the STL file was very well designed and the SeeMeCNC Orion Delta printer took very little time to print.